The Canary Islands – but not as you know them

La Gomera is known for its show-stopping sunsets and glorious mountain scenery
La Gomera is known for its show-stopping sunsets and glorious mountain scenery Credit: GETTY

For many, the Canary Islands are like a favourite cardigan – a safe, familiar, yet unremarkable go-to for winter warmth

The truth is very, very few people – even Telegraph readers – really know this sub-tropical archipelago 62 miles off the southern tip of Morocco’s west coast. If they did, cardigans would be on catwalks and the Canaries would sit comfortably at the top of everyone’s most-wanted holiday list. 

You may think the Canary Islands are just a fly-and-flop destination. But where else can you hop from prehistoric jungle to desert, thrill to top-notch watersports, spot whales then savour a Michelin-starred meal – in January? 

Let’s start with the numbers. There are seven inhabited islands, right? Wrong. There are eight, including Lanzarote’s sandy maverick neighbour, La Graciosa. Ah, but can you stay there, you might ask? Yes. But more of that later.

And isn’t it all terribly sedate? That depends on how you feel about the underground lava tubes to explore, pyramids to peruse, ancient forests to patrol, giant lizards to spot, and a night sky so clear you’d swear it was a giant Imax screen. Then there are award-winning wines, A-list golf courses, and hillside villages that could be twinned with Shangri-La, as well as the volcano-fuelled barbecues and an amazing indigenous cuisine served in underground restaurants. And we’ve not even mentioned the beaches yet.

Each island has a personality unlike any other; the only challenge is deciding which is for you. Read on to find out.

Tenerife

Best for families

Who goes? 

Tenerife is so versatile, fun and keen to please all that it would be easier to list who doesn’t go – skiers. Study your fellow passengers on a flight over and you’re likely to see an even smattering of spandex, lurex, Gore-Tex and Rolex. The island is attracting almost the whole spectrum of travellers these days, with its swanky family resorts, world-class attractions – like the water-adventure Siam Park and the animal-filled Loro Park – plus a whole spaghetti network of hike and bike trails. If only Mount Teide had ski lifts.

Mount Teide
Mount Teide Credit: GETTY

Why go now? 

It’s never been easier to get to the largest and most populous of the Canaries, with more than a dozen regional British airports serving Tenerife.

Gastro-eats are big on the island right now and the 2020 Michelin Guide for Spain and Portugal, announced last month, contained five starred restaurants to choose from (M.B., Restaurante NUB, Kabuki, El Rincón de Juan Carlos and Kazan).

Five-star accommodation also abounds. Hard Rock opened its second European hotel in Tenerife in 2016 (the first was in Ibiza), while the Royal Hideaway Corales Beach arrived in 2018. 

But while there are plenty of sophisticated adult-only hotels on offer – such as the golf and spa-oriented Meliá Hacienda del Conde in Buenavista del Norte, the Hotel Las Madrigueras in Playa de Las Américas and the Iberostar Grand Hotel Salomé in Costa Adeje – the stand-out aspect of Tenerife is that it caters so well for children. Several top-shelf hotels offer unique, Tenerife-focused activities that go above and beyond the usual kids’ club capers, including astronomy safaris and dolphin interactions. 

Why is it so great? 

Of all the islands, Tenerife has the most diversity. In winter, you can sledge on the white slopes of Teide National Park, then in less than an hour be tanning your white bits on the beach, or hitting the greens in year-round sunshine on one of the eight golf courses. You can scale precipitous mountains, burrow through underground lava tubes, explore pyramids and dive in waters that are home to dolphins, or trek through jungle-like forests for a cold beer at village bars where guiris (foreigners) are still a novelty in the eyes of staring locals. If you’ve an assortment of family members to please, you can’t go wrong with Tenerife; it has a bit of everything. 

How to go?

Classic Collection Holidays (0800 047 1064; classic-collection.co.uk) offers packages to dozens of hotels recommended by Telegraph Travel. 

La Gomera 

Best for hiking

Who goes? 

Couples mainly, of the woolly sock fraternity, plus others looking for a haven of leafiness who find holiday heaven in the simpler things in life like tasty local food, show-stopping sunsets and glorious mountain scenery. 

Why go now? 

Temperatures on the island are a decidedly pleasant 71-73F (22-23C) just now, so there’s plenty of scope for swimming and sunbathing. A ferry service linking La Gomera’s three ports of San Sebastian, Playa de Santiago and Valle Gran Rey recently began, so it’s never been easier to hop around the southern half of the island.

Garajonay National Park, a mysterious, misty cloak of ancient laurels and carpets of fern
Garajonay National Park, a mysterious, misty cloak of ancient laurels and carpets of fern Credit: getty

Why is it so great? 

Monumental landscapes are the main reasons for choosing La Gomera. The island is shaped like a splayed orange, with immense valleys separating each segment. Its craggy interior is topped by Garajonay National Park, a mysterious, misty cloak of ancient laurels and carpets of fern, with moss-shrouded monoliths poking out into the blue sky like the tops of witches’ hats.

There are very few attractions for young families, but if you do bring the offspring and they tire of forest trails and coastal walks, there are a couple of beachfront 4-star hotels with child-friendly facilities. Take the kids to the rooftop pool at the modern Hotel Playa Calera in Valle Gran Rey or the kids’ club and playground at the Hotel Jardin Tecina in Playa de Santiago to put the beams back on their little faces.

As with El Hierro, there are no international flights to La Gomera; island-hopping via ferry or plane is the only way to get there, which makes the journey part of the adventure.

How to go?

Prestige Holidays (01425 480400, prestigeholidays.co.uk) offers stays at Parador Conde de la Gomera and Jardin Tecina. 

El Hierro 

Best for nature lovers

Who goes?

Couples seeking sunshine and solace away from the crowds, families wanting to get back in touch with nature, and those keen to explore what some say is one of the best dive destinations in the world. 

Why go now? 

To bag one of the four rooms at the Hotel Puntagrande, registered in the Guinness Book of Records as the “Smallest Hotel in the World”.

One of the island’s famous giant lizards
One of the island’s famous giant lizards Credit: GETTY

Why is it so great? 

Setting Lanzarote’s tiny neighbour of La Graciosa aside, El Hierro is the smallest of the major seven Canary Islands, making it the easiest to traverse. It’s also by far the least developed. Instead of beaches and theme park rides, you get mist-shrouded moonscapes and rehabilitation centres for the island’s famous giant lizards.

If that makes El Hierro sound a bit, shall we say, unsophisticated, that’s because it is. But therein lies its beauty.

If you want sophisticated resorts, you’re much better off going to Tenerife or Gran Canaria. But if you want blissful simplicity and appreciate the wonders of nature more than the ingenuity of tourism developers, you’ll find your Nirvana on this least-visited of the islands.

El Hierro is not only a place to recharge your batteries, it’s a mystical island where you leave feeling grounded with Mother Earth once more. It has an almost magical spirit that you can feel along the ancient trails of El Golfo, amidst the swells of mist that stroke the twisted juniper trees of El Sabinar, and on the petrified rivers of lava that lie on the rippled volcanic plains of the interior like giant tubes of melted liquorice.

Divers, too, will find their natural version of an amusement park in the clear waters of La Restinga Marine Reserve, where an underwater eruption in 2011 has refurbished the area’s 10 dive sites with spectacular new colonies of Technicolor flora and fauna.

Quiet and broody, but with a propensity for the odd explosive outburst, El Hierro is perfect if you prefer your attractions natural rather than man-made.

How to go?

Cachet Travel (cachet-travel.co.uk) offers a week at the Parador de El Hierro from £1,321 per person, based on two people sharing a standard room on B&B basis. This includes flights from Gatwick to Tenerife South (other regional departures are available at a supplement), domestic flights between Tenerife North and El Hierro, private transfers between the South and North airports on Tenerife, and car hire with comprehensive insurance for the full holiday duration on El Hierro. 

Lanzarote

Best for wellness

Who goes?

Those who like a side order of something salubrious with their sunshine – be that yoga, meditation, spa pampering or even breath-training – many surf camps incorporate one or all of the above. Lanzarote is also popular with hard-core sporting types, partly due to hosting one of the toughest triathlon contests on the planet, the Lanzarote Ironman, and also because of get-up-and-go resorts such as Club La Santa.

Lanzarote is popular with surfers
Lanzarote is popular with surfers Credit: ALAMY

Why go now? 

It is an ideal moment to get your fill of me-time at one of the many spa and wellness centres dotted around the east and south coasts, such as the Vitanda in Puerto del Carmen or the Thalassa Spa Centre in the Hotel Princesa Yaiza. If you’re a diver, don’t miss the incredible Museo Atlántico, an underwater museum that was completed in 2017 off the coast of Playa Blanca. Licensed scuba divers can swim between 300 life-size figures submerged at a depth of 14 metres. Further up the east coast, the five-star Hotel Fariones opened its doors last year, providing a perfect ocean-front antidote to winter blues. 

Papagayo
Papagayo Credit: GETTY

Why is it so great? 

Lanzarote is like no other Canary Island, with its harsh landscape softened with sugar cube villages. Unlike its more laissez-faire siblings, a certain orderliness has been established here thanks to the late, local environmental advocate, César Manrique. It’s because of his work that all village houses are painted in white, with green or blue shutters. Also, roadside billboards are conspicuous by their absence, and no buildings are taller than a palm tree (except one hotel in Arrecife that slipped through the net).

For natural drama, Timanfaya National Park provides some of the best in the archipelago. Like a setting from The Land That Time Forgot, its inhospitable landscape is pockmarked with volcanic cones and warmed by black carpets of ash that can melt your flip-flops in seconds. The guided tour is phenomenal and finishes at a restaurant where meat is grilled on heat rising from the depths of a volcano. 

As well as some fantastic beaches, like the coves of Papagayo, Lanzarote puts great emphasis on paying homage to nature’s fiery fury with grotto tours, volcanic vineyards and art installations. The striking topography reminds you constantly that Mother Nature doesn’t nibble on the landscape here, she chomps.

If you like a little natural drama in between your sand and spa sessions, Lanzarote is definitely your island.

How to go?

Hotel Princess Yaiza has on-site tennis courts, gym, spinning, aerobics and Zumba classes. Prestige Holidays (01425 480400, prestigeholidays.co.uk) can organise a package. 

La Graciosa

Best for castaways

Who goes? 

Those looking for the simple pleasures, such as sand, sea and snooze-fest seclusion. The island is reputedly a former pirate hideout and, apart from the absence of dodgy seafarers and menacing flags, not a lot has changed since. It’s the perfect place to pull down the shutters to the outside world and completely chill.

Why go now? 

Because everybody needs some beachfront down time, and on La Graciosa this isn’t so much favoured as forced. Plus, sooner or later somebody will build a hotel here and that Robinson Crusoe effect will be gone.

La Graciosa offers simple pleasures, such as sand, sea and snooze-fest seclusion
La Graciosa offers simple pleasures, such as sand, sea and snooze-fest seclusion Credit: getty

Why is it so great? 

Commercialism in any form doesn’t exist on this barefoot paradise half a mile off the northern tip of Lanzarote. Its 11 square miles are easy to traverse by foot, rented bike or jeep taxi, and filled with little more than dusty hills, a craggy plain and a comatose harbour. The real gems of La Graciosa are its incredibly empty beaches, such as Playa de las Conchas and Playa de la Cocina, where near-white sand and aquamarine waters make up for the lack of any tourism infrastructure. 

Most visitors are of the day-trip variety, but to do La Graciosa full justice and sink into a pleasantly vegetative state, a week in one of the basic pensions or apartments is a must. Caleta del Sebo is the settlement that greets you after a 25-minute boat ride from Orzola in Lanzarote. This motley collection of whitewashed houses and bar/restaurants is connected by streets of sand, and is home to most of the island’s 500 people.

If you need complete relaxation far from the call of cash, cast yourself adrift on La Graciosa, the Canaries’ unsophisticated non-conformer.

How to go?

Cachet Travel (cachet-travel.co.uk) offers a week at the Vista Mar Apartments from £651 per person, based on two sharing. It includes flights from Gatwick to Lanzarote (other regional departures available at a supplement), ferry crossings and private airport transfers.

Fuerteventura 

Best for water sports

Who goes? 

It’s all about the coastline in Fuerteventura, which is why beach lovers and surf dudes flock to its shores all year round. Windsurfers and kite surfers colour the oceanscape with swathes of vivid polyester and Mylar near the Sahara-like dunes of Corralejo, while surfers add to the mix on the wilder west coast and in Sotavento, home to annual water sports world championships.

The Sahara-like dunes of Corralejo
The Sahara-like dunes of Corralejo Credit: GETTY

Why go now? 

If you’re a couple looking for all-inclusive peace, the perennially popular Suite Hotel Atlantis Fuerteventura Resort recently had an overhaul, with an adults-only section added within its extensive gardens. At the other end of the island, another all-inclusive has been revamped; the LaBranda Cactus Garden Hotel offers modern rooms and rooftop cocktails close to the fishing village of Morro Jable.

Why is it so great? 

Along with La Graciosa, Fuerteventura has undeniably the most eye-catching beaches in the Canary Islands and probably throughout Europe. So if ocean or sand dominate your holiday plans, there’s no better choice. Corralejo in the north, and Jandia in the south are where the vast majority of families take their buckets and spades, though the shallow paddling at the horseshoe-shaped beach in the resort of Caleta de Fuste is also proving popular for those with young children.

Fuerteventura has astounding beauty in the form of pale turquoise waters, nearly 100 miles of immaculate blonde beaches – mostly undeveloped and footprint-free – and stunning curvaceous dunes that resemble a mini-Sahara, plus a relatively barren interior that houses a handful of visitor draws. For Caribbean-style beaches and world-class water sports, you’ll find that this laid-back island is hard to beat throughout the whole of Europe.

How to go?

Tui offers four-night half-board stays at Hotel Barceló Fuerteventura Thalasso Spa from £359 per person, based on two adults sharing, flying from London Gatwick on January 28.

Gran Canaria 

Best for culture

Who goes? 

Beachgoers are just one sector of the market drawn to Gran Canaria, the second-most populous island in the Canaries. There are also those seeking to delve into aboriginal history, sample the cuisine, or soak up the atmosphere at one of the many lively festivals that erupt throughout the year. 

Why go now? 

The five-star Radisson Blu Resort & Spa provides an all-encompassing playground within an easy amble of a sandy crescent and the bougainvillea-bedecked marina of Puerto Mogán. Conveniently for cultural explorers, it’s also at the end of the GC-200, a scenic road that will take you straight into the heart of Gran Canaria’s hilly interior.

A recent arrival is the Poema del Mar aquarium and indoor rainforest, which opened in the port area of the capital city, Las Palmas, in 2017. 

Sunbathers on Gran Canaria
Sunbathers on Gran Canaria Credit: ALEX BRAMWELL

Why is it so great? 

Proud, traditional but often surprising, Gran Canaria is rich and varied in its offerings. 

As with Tenerife’s Santa Cruz, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is a proper city built on history, culture and commerce. Here you can trace the footsteps of Christopher Columbus in the 15th-century Vegueta neighbourhood, browse boutiques on the half-mile-long Calle Triana, and get hands-on at the Museum of Science and Technology (museoelder.org). For foodies, there’s a route through the old quarter every Thursday, when many bars offer a tapa and glass of wine for two euros. The vastly undersold Painted Caves of Galdar archaeological site ​​(cuevapintada.com) is also an absolute must-visit destination further along the north coast. 

As you travel that north-west coast, you’ll find seaside villages without the fanfare. In places like Puerto de Las Nieves, Sardina and El Puertillo, the aromas of fried squid and baked parrot fish replace the smell of Factor 50. Beach days for Canarians go hand-in-hand with eating out.

Head inland and discover timeless hillside villages like Arucas, Teror and Fataga, divided by photogenic canyons and cactus-bristled crevices. Take time to sample homemade marzipan, bienmesabe and other almond treats, or sip coffee with villagers in laurel-shaded plazas and soak up the sun, where the only measure of time comes from pealing bells atop tiny, gleaming churches. Bikes and hikes are popular ways to venture inland, but there’s also a reasonably reliable bus network (globalsu.net) that will take the legwork out of such jaunts.

More traditional seaside pleasures appear along the sandy stretch of southern coast from Playa del Inglés to Puerto de Mogán. Here you’ll find resorts that perfectly suit those looking for safe swathes of gold. Away from the sand there are plenty of water parks and themed diversions.

There’s also a plethora of cosmopolitan wine and dine options and a buzzing nightlife to suit all persuasions. And the natural accoutrements, such as the undulating dunes of Maspalomas, distinguish southern Gran Canaria from other beach destinations.

Maspalomas also houses bars, nightclubs and beaches dedicated to the LGBT community, as does Playa del Inglés.

If you’re looking for a good blend of resort time and cultural enlightenment, Gran Canaria may prove to be the best Canary for you.

How to go?

Tui offers seven nights’ full board at the Seaside Hotel Palm Beach from £1,155 per person, based on two adults sharing. Price includes flights departing from London Gatwick.

La Palma

Best for stargazing

Who goes? 

Walkers, nature lovers and astronomy aficionados – and overall, a lot more people than before, thanks to the recent introduction of direct flight connections.

Why go now? 

Because the summer crowds have dispersed, leaving the black sandy beaches broody and adding even more of an Indiana Jones feel to lonesome deep forest ventures. The skies are clear and evenings are best spent on terraces, heads tilted, mouths agape, wondering who’s watching who from the sequinned charcoal canopy.

La Isla Bonita
La Isla Bonita Credit: ©elenakibrik - stock.adobe.com

Why is it so great? 

Smaller than the Lake District, this molar-shaped island is one of the less-visited Canaries, allowing for a more genuine feel for local culture. It also means you get to enjoy the epic canyons and forest trails as a traveller rather than a tourist, with more time and space to clear your lungs and mind with the pure, pine-scented air. Standing alone in the centre of the five-mile wide, one-mile deep crater of La Caldera de Taburiente National Park is a great way to put life’s little annoyances into perspective.

The capital, Santa Cruz de La Palma, is pocket-sized, but its cobbled streets are worthy of at least a full day’s exploration. Colourful blooms spill from the painted wooden balconies of colonial mansions, and restaurants creak with centuries-old floorboards and low-hanging ceiling beams. 

Away from the populous areas, strict light pollution laws provide some of the best stargazing opportunities on the planet, especially from heights such as the Roque de los Muchachos, where guided tours of three international observatories give a unique view of our universe.

Closer to home, the black sand beaches of Puerto Naos and Puerto de Tazacorte provide the chance for restful intermissions, while plenty of natural rock pools, streams and waterfalls offer refreshing respite on woodland and coastal walks.

Romantic and lush, La Palma is the choice if you’re looking for the real Canaries. It’s a place to truly appreciate nature’s wonders on terra firma and beyond.

How to go?

Tui (tui.co.uk) offers four nights in La Palma, staying all-inclusive at the 5T La Palma and Teneguía Princess in Fuencaliente, from £415 per person. Price is based on two adults sharing and includes flights departing from Gatwick on February 25, plus transfers. 

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